Rome: 6.20.07

Wake to bright sunlight and we spill out onto the street looking for provisions and transportation to the site outlined in a walking tour.

Around the corner is an entomology building covered with a spray paint mural of insects.

Istituto di Zoologia dell'università La Sapienza

(Zoology Institute of La Sapienza University)

Piazzale Valerio Massimo, 6, 00162 Roma RM, Italy (Map)

The artist is on the ladder at work at the far end of the wall..

The artist is on the ladder at work at the other end of the wall.

At a corner shop we are recognized as Americans and promptly offered hamburgers and Coca-Cola. We requested espressos and paninis (sandwiches, like bocadillos in Spain) instead. We load up with water and head down into the underground to the metro.

First stop is Trevi Fountain, completed in the mid-1700's:

Extremely hot with no shade available, the building-size fountain swarms with tourists.

A contemporary Centurion soldier makes a mobile phone call.

Too hot to continue with such a terrible map, we purchase a new one and sit for a cold Moretti. A plan made, when the bill arrives, we see that at 8€ (over $10!) apiece, we should stick to cheap corner markets.

Uptight business men in sharp dark suits cut lines through traffic of people and cars.

A classically-styled

sidewalk chalk drawing.

Column of Marcus Aurelius erected to commemorate his action in the Danubian Wars that began in 166 AD. The continuous frieze that wraps over 100 feet high around the column depicts events of the battles.

Sweating and dazed, we round another corner to yet another piece of history meet our eyes- 

the Pantheon!

Originally a pagan temple when constructed in 80AD, it was later converted to a Catholic church in the 7th Century.






















The eclectic collection mobbed by crowds is lit by the only source in the building: the oculus.

Around the decrepit side of the Pantheon

Bernini's elephant in front of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva is the only Gothic church in Rome. We duck inside to get out of the summer sun to find a hidden treasure of private chapels, and Michelangelo's Christ the Redeemer.

Photos weren't allowed, but culture in a comfortable temperature allowed us to remain a few hours.

Our guidebook suggests Sant Eustachio il Caffe for The Grancaffe. Smooth and slightly sweet, it was a quick caffeine hit before continuing on to Vatican City.










The end of our walking tour, Saint Peter's is in sight.



Crossing the River Tiber on the Ponte Sant'Angelo to Castel San't Angelo. The bridge is lined with sculptures of angels by Bernini.





To the left of the castle is Saint Peter's Basilica (San Pietro) in Vatican City shrouded in atmosphere.

The short walk is lined with embassies and the occasional stencil.







 Hellraiser in Vatican City...

The street opens to Piazza San Pietro, lined with elegant colonnades that frame the Basilica.

The Vatican is closed to visitors at this time of the day.

The Egyptian obelisk of the 13th century BC, was taken to Rome in AD 37 by Emperor Caligula. It was moved and re-erected in 1586.

With no place open to purchase tickets,  we return on the train for free. Feeling faint and looking pale, Jude retires to the room while we revisit the Chinese restaurant around the block for a dinner together at a shared table.

Florence to Rome: 6.19.07

All roads lead to the Rome today as we continue our travels south to the ancient capitol of the world founded in 753 BC!

Map: Florence to Rome

An early morning still life of our most current adventures.

Out into the late morning sun, the search for a laundry is on. High siesta, shop after shop is closed. The sting of sweat in our eyes drives us back to the room to regroup. Water, relaxation and a lunch downstairs revives our spirits. And this time we ask for directions first..!

Finally! An open laundrette - but not much of a refuge from the heat. We meet a friendly Romanian woman who speaks little English or Spanish. Folded and finished, back to the room to pack.


Last night, Jude thought a jug of cheap wine would give him a better taste of the culture. Now he needs to figure out how to pack it in his gear...


For a more portable, less breakable container, Jude uses a water bottle to carry his wine- now it looks like he is taking swigs from a bottle of cooking oil.

Trying to beat the heat to the station, a stop for the map to be checked is needed. Jude glances to find his way and starts out, leaving his "cooking oil" wine behind, as we decide which direction to take. 

Crowds get in the way as Jude gained a block ahead and disappeared. At the station, we scoured the platforms for Jude without sign, and got into a ticket line. 

With 5 minutes until departure, tickets are purchased and seats are found...still with no sign of Jude. Scanning the windows, we spot the International Man of Mystery, Jude!

“I thought you guys ditched me!” he shouts with relief. "Of course not, man!" we reply, and agree to meet at the train station in Rome. We toss him an apple as the train begins to lurch forward.

Alone together for the first time in weeks we share some wine as the train clacks the serene path through the Tuscan countryside:

castles, fields, rivers, and cliffs; natural beauty all around. At the ride's end, the skies are dominated by antennas and satellite dishes as we pull into Tiburtina station, Rome.

With time to spare until Jude arrives, we sit and begin to pour libations. Surprised looks cross our faces as, like an apparition, Jude appears from underground at the end of the platform! He had unknowingly taken a high speed train, and had been looking for us for 45 minutes already...!

Together, from the train station we take the bus for free to the designated stop for our reserved room. Hiking around, wet with sweat, unable to find Residenza Camilla Apartments, we decide to send out individuals to search while the others rest. On the third try, the alley location was revealed.


A classy set-up: Jude has his own "room" in the kitchenette and a separate bedroom for us.



The luxury of a clean bed and cool air is too much to resist and the bedroom becomes the common area.

Soon, we venture out again for a meal of Italian Chinese food. The price is right, food is tasty and they even throw in a few strange trinkets with LCD lights and Looney Toons characters...

Our first night in the Eternal City, some relaxation on the terrace under the night sky, and followed by an early bed...

Florence: 6.18.07

A late start and breakfast at the cafe downstairs to another day of exploring the artistic wonders of Florence!

Around every corner are treasures of Italian art...

Mythological creatures in bronze.

Art history is strewn all about the city center.








Perseus and Medusa

The Rape of the Sabines

Through a corridor lined with famous Florentines is the entrance to the Uffizi Museum, that houses Michelangelo's David among other pieces.

A look back at where we came from: The Uffizi Museum alley.

Among the oldest bridges in Europe, Pont Vecchio (Old Bridge) has the nickname of The Golden Bridge because of its many jewelry stores.

Renovation in action at

The Pitti Palace (Palazzo Pitti).


Fine example of Italian design parked in front of the palace.













Interesting idea for 

Trompe L'oeil...





 














Our guidebooks lead us outside the well-preserved Roman Gate (Porta Romana) in the city wall to follow a winding, natural walk through the countryside edge of the city.












To gather our bearings, a rest stop for a beer and gelato to go- a most excellent delicacy! Then, onwards in our walking journey of Italian Spire trees and unbeatable photo opportunities.

An intriguing monastery...

We begin the steep climb to the pinnacle, 
Byzantine faced building above.

Well manicured grave sites line both sides of the ascent to the building.



Just after we silently enter the dark and seemingly deserted monastery, a bell tolls. Taken by surprise we freeze as an elderly man in robes appears at the top of the stairs behind the altar. He claps three times and begins to descend the stairs. Unsure, we slowly turn and walk to the door outside. Through the door, we look behind to see the man with his right hand raised. As Jude returns the gesture with a wave...the monk makes the sign of the cross accompanied by a subtle smile!

As the sun lowers in the sky, we continue along the road named for Galileo to the next point of interest...

Contemplating a newly blessed stature.

The last goal for the day: Piazzale Michelangelo is perfectly framed in the dusk light. It features a copy of David overlooking the city.













Starved and tired from the eventful hike, we indulge in Firenze-themed cheeseburgers such as the Galileo and the Michelangelo as well as a large Moretti beer!

The piazza overlooks the city's infamous beauty.

The sun, obscured by overcast, glistens on the River Arno- rewarding our day's achievements.

 




Winding back to the room, a stencil suggests varieties of love...

The guys venture out into the night for takeout pizza and more Moretti beers while I stay book lodging in Rome for the next night...

Pisa to Florence: 6.17.07

We are up early for checkout and an included breakfast. With a warm family environment, Antonella's mother and son introduce us to the table settings. Our breakfast consists of less traditional items such as pre-packaged breads and coffee.

After our meal, it is time to gather our packs, say our goodbyes and thanks.

Hike to the train station, purchase tickets hours in advance to Florence(Firenze in Italian). Stow our packs to take in the famous sights until departure.

Along the way, crossing the river Arno, a tiny church, Santa Maria della Spina. Named for a spine from Jesus' crown of thorns it supposedly houses.

Evidence of the previous night's festivities celebrating the city's patron saint include a girl flying a city flag from her bicycle.



Our map guides us to the Piazza dei Miracoli (below) that contains the infamous Leaning Tower of Pisa (Torre pendente di Pisa).


Construction of this world-famous inclined bell tower began in 1173 for 200 years and the tendency towards leaning followed shortly after.

Tourists posing for photos push imaginary objects in the air, and vendors haggle prices for "designer" merchandise everywhere.

A moment to capture the memory of our visit in photos and take some souvenirs...

flicking, kicking,

and licking the

Leaning Tower of Pisa!

Break for a cool beer and internet cafe to reserve a room ahead before departure to Florence.

Quiet train ride to study the map, and target some important sights...

Map: Pisa to Florence, Italy

Off the train, into the unrelenting heat to sweat while finding our reservations. The city's importance, elegance, and history are apparent all around. After a few wrong turns, Hotel Tina comes into view.

After a misunderstanding at the front desk, we are shown our room.

The view from our window.

Getting settled in our strange accommodations that include a double bed, cot, sink, ceiling fan, shower, and bidet type basin...and the luxury of air conditioning.

Back out into the heat for the crown jewel of the city: the Florence Cathedral or Duomo Santa Maria del Fiore.

Studies in books could not prepare one for such an architectural reality.

Breathtaking, overwhelming green, pink, and white façade of the Cathedral was completed in 1886.

An aerial view of Santa Maria del Fiore, belltower at the top left, and the dome at the center.

Brunelleschi's dome (Cupola) impresses faintness upon it's viewers as the largest masonry dome in the world!

Built in 1334, Giotto's Belltower at the Cathedral climbs over 277 feet into the sky.

Across from the main entrance to the Duomo is the Baptistery. The three sets of doors are famous works by Pisano, Ghiberti, and Brunelleschi.

Towering around 15 feet high, each door is decked with panels re-telling happenings from the time of Christ.

A wide shot of the work of Ghiberti and Brunelleschi.

Details of the intricate bronze sculptural relief of Ghiberti's Door of Paradise.

Searching for a recommended restaurant for dinner leads into back alleys with character.

Unable to find what we were looking for, we settle for a corner eatery that touted air conditioning. Food was fine, and the air was still a bit warm, but a salad, pasta, and pizza were found. We return to retire in our hotel room with cheap and tasty Moretti beer all around, and to review the photos of the day's adventures...