Málaga. Day 3: 6.03.07

Skip breakfast at the hostel, taking remainders of bread from dinner, and go to convenience store for an espresso.

Sitting at the cafe bar, we join old men who drink steaming cafe con leche out of small highball glasses.

They are also partaking in some kind of clear liqueur...

Slug the coffees and set off towards the sea, taking in the sights - graffiti tags and an overturned glass receptacle..?

Four blocks from the hostel, we reach the beach. Industrial cargo and tanker ships--> at first look, the Med does not appear very clean.

Walking along the shore sidewalk, passerbys stare.
Making contact, saying, “hola,” but they do not look away or greet us. Staring into a stranger's eyes--

a curious characteristic...

Our first cucaracha sighting...about the size of a Euro.



Continue along the waterfront into one of many well groomed parks.



This retreat from the summer heat has fountains and busts strewn amongst the shady palm trees, ferns, and flowers.

The city's coat of arms in amazing tile work!

*Peligro indeed!*

Beautiful tiles and ceramic planters frame crests from other cities.





In the park around every curve: sculptures, fountains, and even an orchestral amphitheater!

From the park,

a galleon ship

in the bay.




At a clearing, above the city the walls of a castle- curiosity marks this the new goal for the day!

The park ends. To continue exploring, we must venture into the rays of the sun...

A perfect walkway in the cool, lush shade.

Ahead, the map says

the Bullring of Málaga is near...








Photo: 
Wikipedia



The building is a large, white ring with rust red accents.


*Many cities in Spain have bullrings and their local favorite matadors such as the one immortalized in bronze here*



After a stop on the other side of the bullring, we hike up

the garden to the

Castle of Gibralfaro.

Our walk starts to get surreal with amazing plant life all around!

We meet our first talkative local, Luis, and enjoy a lengthy personal conversation in Spanish about everything to do with Málaga, family, and life!

*The government building

of Málaga Province 
seated behind gardens

from the early 1800's.

Shortly after we parted ways, a sharp stomach pain caused me nausea and vomiting...we tripped to our Spaniard amiga, la farmacia, for some precautionary medication, and then caught a taxi home.

We slept restlessly through the early evening, and later caught up on accounts of the adventures to date, and dined on a gas station empanada...

Tomorrow morning,

we would move on to our

próximo destino, Ronda.

Málaga. Day 2: 6.02.07

We set out after our FREE breakfast at the hostel...
Looking over city maps while eating, we decided our destination of the day would be El Museo Picasso.
The construction in the daylight was more dangerous, but at least it is light enough to see!


After another look at the map,

we see the "river" we need to cross.

It is something of a controlled wash, with a grassy area in the middle. This waterway flows out to the Mediterranean Sea.

A visit to Málaga was part of an awakening journey taken by the legendary Fairy Tales author, Hans Christian Andersen.

From a busy commercial street, we look to see an old structure that definitely stands out.


 
We approach to investigate...

A church...from it's size and placement in an open square, it is probably an important site. There are 3 cafes surrounding the building, but the prices are geared toward someone other than us. We keep moving...

There are small, unmarked, dark alleys everywhere. It is tough to choose...we select one and find interesting stencils!

Exiting the closed, quiet alley on the other side, into a bustling courtyard full of people. A sort of gathering is taking place at the church.

We dodge the people to find an empty outdoor table at a Cafe Central. We order Cruz Campo cervezas and paella with shrimp.

*Paella is a rice dish from Valencia, Spain that possibly has origins in the times of the Moorish (Muslim) rulers*

Retreat under white umbrellas

and a building-sized Picasso work.

Linguists believe that the word paella comes from the name of the pan it is made in - the Latin term patella, a flat plate on which offerings were made to the Gods. 

Interested in sampling more local flavors, we visit a bottle shop behind the restaurant, and purchase a bottle of Artemi ron meil (honey rum) for later...

Bottles shaped like matadors and bulls. 

Classic images from the region.

Wandering around, it is apparent the city is not very large - We happen upon the earlier church again, but from another side!

The front of the church

was gated, but we were able

to see the details

on this side.

Also, there is an entrance on this side requiring a fee to enter. We go in to see what is there, taking photos at the same time...we are quickly told to refrain.

Outside again and around the back of the church, we find a different sort of place...a well-kept garden!

Beauty among weeds...

After a cool break in the hedges,

we continue our explorations through the city.

We reach our first destination of the day:
El Museo Picasso!

...no photos allowed. The large collection showcases a broad ranging exhibit from all periods of Picasso's career.

The museum is a new addition to Málaga

honoring the city's role as the artist's birthplace.

On the edge of the old town are the ruins of

a Roman amphitheater.

Through old town to return home, ghosts of condemned buildings are still visible from the sidewalk.

Re-crossing the dry riverbed wash, we see people playing futball.

For dinner, we self-cater...

our new stand-by:

Iberian salami, sliced cheese, water, beers, bread, and potato crisps. Relax watching

a Jacques Cousteau documentary,

and enjoy the delicious Artemi ron miel.

Artemi!

Very sweet nectar...

dangerous stuff!

Stifling air requires an open window.

Hear zee Germans tourists conversing

in the showers and their rooms.

Mosquitoes bite

any uncovered flesh available...

Málaga Night Walk

The box that the walls and tile floor make

is layered with colors.

The metal shutters of shops are rolled in front of doors and windows, enameled with either commissioned spray or the markings of taggers.

A popular mode of transport, scooters share the closed sidewalks with pedestrians.

Demonstrating decisive action

to avoid moped scooter motorists.

An aesthetic surprise - cool green neon...all over, everywhere in varying designs!

One of many styles

of ubiquitous green crosses

at the farmacía.

Back to our bunk-beds, somewhat uneasy from our first few hours in a strange land that has not been that different from home.

First Night in Málaga: 6.01.07

After we cleaned up and rested for a bit,

we ventured out in search of food.

While hunting for our hostel,

we soldiered through the entire neighborhood.

A decent crash course in getting to know a new city.

We knew the locations of the grocery,

convenience store, and tavern!

Around the corner, a promising prospect -

“El Rincón Ibérico” (“The Iberian Corner”).

**“Ibérico” refers to the Iberian Peninsula

on which Spain is situated.**

A perfect opportunity to dive into local gastronomy! We took in the ambiance as we enjoyed an Alhambra Lager and the complimentary cold tapa: tasty briny crab and onion dish.

Rustic unfinished wooden floor, walk up deli-style bar and cafeteria, a Spanish family with a rambunctious child, pork memorabilia...?...and

pig legs with hooves...??

*With research, we find that these “pig legs” are actually a delicacy specific to Spain.

Jamón Ibérico (Iberian ham) is a type of cured ham made from the cerdo negro (black pig),

or Black Iberian Pig.

One rear leg can cost as much as €350--

over $480 USD!

The animal is allowed to roam on open ranges feasting on acorns, roots, and herbs until slaughter.*

The observations of our intriguing environment and empty glasses prompt us to sample the Alhambra Negra (dark) accompanied with a creamy potato tapa.

Our pit stop complete, we ramble on into the darkening walled sidewalks.

The city was currently building a massive underground metro system, and because of this,

the sidewalks wall off the torn up streets.

An example of a pedestrian “walkway”:

the path crosses directly under

a large construction crane.

Workers straggled around the site

as we photographed the bizarre hazards.

*Safety tips are not posted

for pedestrians passing through the work site*

Upon arrival, we find the convenience store

we had pegged earlier was closed.

This is our first run-in with

Spanish business hours.

*This timekeeping strange to those from the US

is due to the often stereotyped siesta

(short afternoon nap) that takes place

after the midday meal typically from 13:00 – 16:00.

Because of this, many Spanish bars and restaurants

close around 17:00 and re-open after 21:00pm

for dinner.*

So with the borrowed camera, we take to the streets.

Residencia Universitaria Guadalmar...Finally!

June 1, 2007:

See if you can find the address!

**Initiation for The Lifestyles of the Lost and Sweaty... 



*unmarked hostels, *missed bus stop, *street signs at 15 ft. high, and *mass road construction.

A room...

with a view...

Our locker for

3 nights.

Quite a tight fit. Nice windows, free WiFi Internet, free breakfast, and our very own bunk-beds! The staff was quite pleasant, but other occupants such as the mosquitoes were a constant annoyance.

First Stop: June, 02, 2007 Málaga, Andalucia Spain.

Photo mural of Málaga Spain at Pablo Picasso Airport.

Famous as the birth place of Pablo Picasso, Málaga 

has a long history as a major port during

the Islamic era of the region.

Now a capitol city of the province by the same name,

Málaga is located deep within the southernmost autonomous community in Spain, Andalucia.

The rolling countryside of Andalucia marks the strategic gateway to the northern Mediterranean.

At its closest, the Med is a mere 15 miles from Tangier, Morocco in northern Africa.

Map: Andalucia community

Left: Atlantic Ocean

Right: Mediterranean Sea

SPAIN

Map: Green markers are destinations visited

Yellow are points of interest not visited

Recent studies in the Spanish language

led us to our first overseas destination:

Spain is home to prehistoric cave drawings,

ruins of Roman settlements,

evidence of Islamic rule, religious Inquisition,

and somewhat recent Civil War.

Infamous Spanish artists include

the genius of Gaudi, Picasso, El Greco,

Cervantes, Velázquez, Goya, and Dalí.

Typical cultural stereotypes include

Flamenco dancing, bullfights, siestas and fiestas!

But, do they have Mexican food...?

Our whirlwind of adventures begins again!

They Were Tasty 

pieces together the winding,

overlapping maze of our travels

sampling the northern Mediterranean.

With over 5,000 photographs taken and more than

16 cities in 6 countries visited in 5 weeks,

recounting actual happenings will be quite

the entertaining challenge.